Japan: 'Sakura wander to wonder'.

Helena Nijs
Jun 3
10 min read

Hello dear readers

After seven months of traveling I was back in Belgium. To write something about Japan seemed difficult to me. But actually that was not the case at all. It was just nice to get lost in one of my own experiences.

Tokyo, no matter how cool you were... After five days I had to explore Japan further. And especially because 'Sakura', the blossom vibe spread over (almost) the entire country.

Since I usually chose my destination at the time, I hadn't bought a Japan Rail Pass yet. In the end, it wasn't necessary and it would have been more expensive.

So dear reader, don't worry if you didn't order one. You can travel much cheaper without a Japan Rail Pass. On Honshu (main island) it was fantastic to use public transport. But with all the different companies it wasn't always easy to find the right train in that maze. Google Maps was usually my biggest help or I called on the charity of the Japanese.

Nikko, a city less than a hundred and fifty kilometers from Tokyo was my first destination. According to the Japanese one of the most beautiful places to visit and you should not judge other places if you have not yet seen Nikko. I soon understood why. This historical place exudes an authentic cozy village atmosphere. I walked around until my bus left for Lake Chuzenji. This lake is surrounded by a breathtaking decor of lush forest, majestic mountains, old volcanoes and natural hot springs (Onsen). In fact, nature was still barren because winter was still very present. There was even snow at the lake, thus too early for 'Sakura'. I visited the beautiful Kegon waterfall that is surrounded by the spectacular basalt rocks. Again this was a special moment and a completely different wow! Luckily my hotel was not far, there was still a cold icy wind blowing and it was only two degrees. But hey, time to finally try those onsen! Onsen are hot water baths with water from a geyser. Still, it's wonderful to end a cold day of walking in this way.

After a wonderful night's sleep, I took the bus to Nikko center. From the station I explored the city by foot. Of course I bumped into a super fun coffee truck , how could it be otherwise! Nom nom, I was happy with this coincidental moment again. At the entrance of the National Park the red 'Shinkyo bridge' was proudly displayed. Below it the clear blue river Daiya winds its way.

To this day, most Japanese adhere to Buddhism and Shinto. Shinto is the religion where people believe in Kami (spirits), spiritual forces in trees, mountains, sea or wind. It was therefore common in the past that both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines were integrated with each other.

Next I walked into Nikko National Park towards Toshogu Shrine, a jewel of Japanese heritage nestled in the serene landscapes of Nikko.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine is a central part of Japan’s cultural and historical tapestry. Dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, this shrine is known for its spectacular architecture and intricate carvings, including the famous “See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” monkey statues.

Wow, Nikko Toshogu! When I got there, my jaw just dropped. The abundance of detail, the splendor of colors... it was truly impressive! You step into a wooded area and then... BAM! This fairytale sanctuary, with all its bright colors that contrast so beautifully with the fresh green. I immediately felt completely zen. Whether you're a history nerd, a culture junkie, or just want to dream away in an oasis of peace: Nikko Toshogu is an absolute must-see for everyone. Your camera will be working overtime, I can tell you that! In short: an unforgettable experience!

And so my trip in this dazzling area was over! Time to finally get on that famous Shinkansen train to Kyoto. That high-speed train with its futuristic look, travels no less than 320 km per hour! And so cool, how the people were neatly standing in line behind each other waiting until everyone had gotten off before getting on.

'Sakura in Kyoto' is 'the place to be' in Japan to admire the blossoms! What a timing, crazy that I could catch this!

Wow, and there they were, those Japanese cherry trees, in full bloom.

Everywhere I saw: along the small canals that flowed through the city, next to the authentic houses of Kyoto, on the Kamogawa river, at the temples... Sakura everywhere. In some places there was even security because you absolutely were not allowed to touch the flowers. This was quite a unique experience and even contagious! Spring fever all over!

Kyoto has everything in one package. Strolling through the streets here was incredibly cozy. Moreover, the weather was really spring! I quickly booked an extra night because I loved Kyoto so much. In five days I visited the most important sights: Nijo Castle, Kinkaku-ji temple, Ginkaku-ji temple, the philosopher's path 'Sakyo, Sishiki market, Gion district, Shijo Dori shopping... And just wandering around and soaking up the atmosphere of the city without a plan. Of course, everything was emphasized by those heavenly dazzling blossoms! Japan is also known for its gastronomic excellence. They can transform everything, absolutely everything, into a delicious dish. They surpass all flavors! So, I treated myself to a 10-course menu. Before I entered the restaurant, I had to take off my shoes. I took a seat at a low counter where chefs were performing their daily work in front of me. I loved it! I was served top beef (kobe beef) in different ways. I could grill some of these dishes myself. I'm not really a meat eater, but this, this was mmmm melt in the mouth and a must try. I also got delicious vegetables, a soup, Korean rice, tea and a heavenly dessert of macha. I had eaten my fill! This was delicious, and I mean really delicious.

And then it was time to move on to my next destination. But before my Shinkansen train left, I wanted to walk through the thousand red-orange colored gates of Fushimi Inari-Taisha. It was already terribly busy at half past eight in the morning. Because it was way too busy, I quickly walked back through the gates on the other side. Hehe, I had done this well. That felt much more special because there was hardly anyone who was already going back. Fun to take pictures, right?! Check, another one to tick off.

Trains in Japan: they are so punctual that you can synchronize your watch with them (and no, I am not joking!). And the journey is never long! I soon arrived in Hiroshima where 'Sakura' had also arrived.

This rather pleasant city has been severely ravaged by horror. On August 6, 1945, Hiroshima was hit by a nuclear attack. The atomic bomb 'Little Boy' razed the city to the ground. In the 'Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum' the magnitude of this terrible event became clear to me. Some of the texts I read were so moving that I was speechless. The Genbaku Dome is the only monument that stood upright. When I walked through the Peace Memorial Park, I felt hope and peace. A fun fact is that the city was declared a 'city of peace' by the Japanese Parliament for their many efforts for peace on earth.

In Obscura Coffee Roasters, over a delicious cappuccino, I met Chen Lu. It was so nice to chat with this lady from China. Time flew by! We exchanged our details to meet later.

So we agreed to meet the next day on 'Miyajima', a small island where sika deer roam freely. Hehe, we soon came across a few. They are so cute, but don't take your food out of your bag or they will run away with it. Chen Lu and I did a nice mountain hike to the top of 'Mount Misen'. From the top we had a mysterious misty view of the city of Hiroshima, the sea and the beautiful nature. We went back down with the cable car.

Low tide allowed us to reach the large torii (entrance gate) leading to Itsukushima Shrine. It is said to have been built in 593. Although it has been rebuilt several times due to disasters, it still has the appearance of the shrine built by Taira no Kiyomori, a famous military leader of the late Heian period (794-1185). It is one of the few shrines in Japan where wooden buildings stand on the sea. This image is original!

I left back to Hiroshima not too late because I still wanted to explore the city.

The next morning I left again by train to Himeji where the Himeji castle is located. This enormous sensational monument from the 14th century is called 'Hakurojo', which means White Heron. This because of its white walls. Wow, this building remained completely intact after the Second World War, despite the surroundings being completely destroyed. The contours, colors and the neighborhood were extraordinary. And of course as icing on the cake the cherry trees were blooming wonderfully in the decor. In the evening I decided to go and admire the castle. By night Himeji Castle came into its own even more! We walked around admiring and amazed in that quiet garden where no one could be seen anymore. The atmosphere was unique! Wonderful to end our evening like this!

What a great fun it was to travel with Chen-Lu for a while! But our paths together ended there. Saying goodbye is never fun because you know somewhere that you will never see that person again. Who knows?! Never say never.

Finally, when I arrived in Osaka I had a different feeling. For Japan I found this a slightly more chaotic city... It seemed like there were fewer rules. Of course, after dropping off my luggage I went looking for coffee. Again I came across a nice place that was not far from my hotel . I even enjoyed a second coffee! This way I could calmly choose what to visit. Of course a visit to 'Osaka Castle Park' with its four thousand cherry trees could not be missed. Because of the wonderfully mild spring weather I took advantage twice as much. The castle was surrounded by fortresses, gates, impressive stone walls and moats. How nice it was to stroll around at that fantastic, insanely beautiful hanami spot! Japanese people were having a nice picnic together under the beautiful blossoms, tourists were enjoying this magnificent view and me? I did exactly the same!

Apparently the Japanese also have a thing for American neighborhoods. America-Mura is an American mini village in Osaka. There is even a peace statue on top of a large building. A bit strange, but somehow it was cozy. There was a relaxed atmosphere and there were many nice vintage shops, cool gadgets and eat stores. That donut shop in Japan is unheard of in Belgium! Donuts, not really my thing but that donut with pistachio cream was a sweet beckoning siren. Jeezes, to lick your thumbs and fingers. When I think back on it, my mouth starts to water. I walked through the crazy neon-lit Dotonbori street; where I arrived just a little too early because it was still light. At half past seven I had to be at ' TeamLab Botanical Garden Osaka '. In the evening, Nagai Botanical Garden was transformed into an experiential art space. The music created a zen atmosphere and the light show was influenced by the wind, the rain and the behavior of people and birds. Ooo this was so beautiful. Peace came over me as I enjoyed this fun experience while walking. Wow, great day!

'Okinawa Honto' island was my next destination. Getting off the plane felt wonderful because of the subtropical climate. With the monorail I was quickly in my hotel in Naha. That day I strolled around the city. On my way I came across the beautiful 'Fukushuen Garden', a typical Japanese garden, the beach of Naha and an authentic restaurant where I had a nice meal. The second day I decided to rent a car for two days. Ideal, there was a parking lot next to the rental office where I could park overnight.

By public transport I would be on the road for four hours to get to the other side of the island. I got the car Suzuki Lapin. When I started it a little rabbit would appear on the dashboard and say 'hello' in a friendly and cute voice. When I turned off the ignition, this same little voice would say 'See you'. Hehe, absolutely fantastic! Driving in Japan was slow, very slow or just as slow as by public transport. You are allowed to drive (only) fifty, sometimes forty, very very occasionally sixty and when you get on a motorway, eighty per hour. During those two days I visited 'Cape Hedo': the northernmost point of the island with a view of impressive steep cliffs, Kouri Big Bridge, Kouri Island and Heart Rock Beach. Wow, it's paradise there. The last day I took the bus to Araha Beach to walk there and enjoy a nice coffee .

The next morning... I flew back to Osaka to take the train to Hakone. Hakone is the closest city to Mount Fuji. I had to see it. Unfortunately, I couldn't climb it because of the season and I was too late in the evening to walk to the viewpoint. A ride on the Hakone Tozan Railway, the oldest mountain railway in Japan, is a treat for more than just train fans. The small trains wind through a narrow, densely forested valley over many bridges and tunnels, stopping at small stations along the way and changing direction at three switches. I took the one from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora. Then a short visit to Hakone. And then I enjoyed a wonderful onsen in my hotel. Blissful!

In Hakone, a short stay where I wanted to take the cable car early the next morning to go to the best viewpoint. Both the guy at the reception of my hotel and the guy of the cable car said it was not worth it that day. Because of the cloudy day my trip to see this gust (Mount Fuji) was cancelled. Oh well, you can't have everything! So Tokyo, here I come (again)!

Less than two hours later I was in Tokyo! The end of my great adventure was near. Wow, I was looking forward to seeing everyone again. In a way I was (also) dreading going back home. I didn't know how I would feel after such a particularly crazy journey.

My last two days in Tokyo had started! Apart from wandering around in this mega city, I had made an appointment with a Japanese hairdresser. He spent two hours on my hair. Finally my hair looked healthy again. The hairstylist gave me some nice to do tips! Oooo my and it was already late. Still I quickly rushed to the oldest neighborhood of Tokyo 'Yanaka'. On my last day I wanted to make the most of it. This neighborhood was said to be the least affected by the World War. The look and feel was authentic and cozy. Glad I could still experience this. And on the advice of a local (the hairdresser) I ended my last evening at ' Sushi Zanmai '. Admittedly a chain but according to him the price-quality ratio would be great. There is a whole story behind the owner... but I prefer to keep that a mystery. Next to me at the bar sat May, a cool sweet Japanese woman. We started talking because the menu was in Japanese. She translated it for me. Mmmmm, heavenly good sushi. May gave me 500 yen to take the train to the airport in the morning. What a warm, fantastic ending to my great unforgettable adventure !

Not to say my greatest adventure ever !